living in a fairy tale
sometimes, when the stars align and the overwhelm eases, i feel as if i might just be living in a fairy tale. this life in italy, this journey to another world.

that's how i felt on monday, april 30, celebrating the last day of my month. enchanted and extraordinary. a unique opportunity to explore the ancient center of pontremoli. on a special personal tour arranged by one of its noted citizens.

pontremoli, or "trembling bridge." the point at which the verde and magra rivers meet. a village only 24 km from my home, yet worlds away. attempting to grasp its antiquity.

mentioned by the archbishop of canterbury in the 10th century, an obligatory stop on the via francigena. completely surrounded by walls at one time, still a few doors and towers standing. il campanone, the bell tower, is one. part of the stronghold built in 1322 to divide the city in two. the duke's solution to prevent frequent and bloody clashes between two opposing political groups.

castello del piagnaro. once a medieval defensive fortress, now (in part) a hostel for pilgrims traveling on the francigena.

the castle name from the word "piagne," slabs of sandstone traditionally used to cover roofs. still visible now.



standing at the top of the fortress. sensing its strength, surveying its domain. bewitching.


and the museum within the castle, which houses a fascinating find. the stele statues. male and female human figures, engraved in sandstone and dating back as far as 5000 BC.

one of the oldest and more mysterious aspects of the lunigiana territory, artistically displayed within the restored castle walls. haunting visuals. the statues not enclosed in glass cases, but allowed to stand freely inside the dark castle.

marveling at the bridge of san francesco di sopra, originally constructed in the 14th century. of romanesque era, once connecting pontremoli with nearby villages.

sampling delicious items as well, unique to lunigiana. such as testaroli (made with only flour and water), often served with pesto.

the delicious bianco oro ("white gold"), a wildly popular secret-recipe drink. available at only one bar with unpredictable hours.

and a new-to-the-scene craft brewery, nestled within the medieval setting.


trying to take it all in . . . the stone walls, their historical importance, the spectacular views.

these beyond-the-imagination experiences, these stories of inspiration and human grit, filling me with wonder. ??❤️




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